Blown fuse?

Sounds like the main 100A fuse blew. It's physically bolted into the bottom of the engine bay fuse box. You can see it from the top, it's the blue box with metal in it. Is it blown? 

@haloruler64

It's night out so won't be able to tell till morning :/ One fuse is not bad. I can find replacement at advanced auto?

Posted by: @hello

@haloruler64

It's night out so won't be able to tell till morning :/ One fuse is not bad. I can find replacement at advanced auto?

Don't they have electricity where you live ? 😣  I agree with halo ...it's sounds like the main fuse that's a pain to change .  

Posted by: @phats

Posted by: @hello

@haloruler64

It's night out so won't be able to tell till morning :/ One fuse is not bad. I can find replacement at advanced auto?

Don't they have electricity where you live ? 😣  I agree with halo ...it's sounds like the main fuse that's a pain to change .  

I don't have a garage 🙁 wait why is main fuse pain to change

Edit what I don't get is how I blew it trying to do led lights XD

This should work right? https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/littelfuse-fuse-pal-294-32v-male-100a-1-piece-card-0pal1100xp/11499334-P

Found this

I can see how it can be a pain given it's next to the battery -_-

It's pretty wild to rev the engine and have the tach sit at 0 lol. Also odometer is off. Does this mean I can drive it without adding more miles?!

How exactly did you blow anything with LEDs? Also what LEDs are you using?

Also yes and yes, the 100A fuse is standard and available in any auto parts store and the Frankie video seems right. 

Before you pull the fuse box out and replace the main fuse, check to make sure that fuse box is missing its voltage.

You can do this by using your voltmeter to check to see if any of it's fuse terminals have voltage, or by doing a functional check of the power windows, door buzzer, stop/tail lights, defrosters, etc...

If that fuse block main fuse is blown, none of those circuits will be energized.

If that fuse is blown, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery first and then the positive terminal - this will reduce the possibility of shorting the battery out and having it explode in your face.  

When connecting the battery back up, connect the positive terminal first and negative terminal last - same reasoning.

Good luck.

Since you said the radio doesn't work, it sounds like maybe its the 25A ECU-B1 fuse.

Posted by: @haloruler64

How exactly did you blow anything with LEDs? Also what LEDs are you using?

 

Just cheap ones I got on amazon. I don't think it's the LEDs. I was trying to wire them up with the door trigger and I touched the ground wire to something I don't think I should've. Since I had the harness wired to door trigger and 12v, something probably blew.

Posted by: @neomr2

Before you pull the fuse box out and replace the main fuse, check to make sure that fuse box is missing its voltage.

You can do this by using your voltmeter to check to see if any of it's fuse terminals have voltage, or by doing a functional check of the power windows, door buzzer, stop/tail lights, defrosters, etc...

If that fuse block main fuse is blown, none of those circuits will be energized.

If that fuse is blown, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery first and then the positive terminal - this will reduce the possibility of shorting the battery out and having it explode in your face.  

When connecting the battery back up, connect the positive terminal first and negative terminal last - same reasoning.

Good luck.

Since you said the radio doesn't work, it sounds like maybe its the 25A ECU-B1 fuse.

 

Actually, how do I tell if the main fuse is blown? From the top, I can see a metal arch thingy that seems to be intact. I don't have a multimeter. Turning ignition to on only lights the ABS light, no other lights come on. The car starts fine and it has dash lights but none of the instruments actually work (all read 0) and odometer is blank. No radio or heat. Power windows don't work. Headlights, domelight and power locks work.

Posted by: @hello

Posted by: @neomr2

or by doing a functional check of the power windows, door buzzer, stop/tail lights, defrosters, etc...

If that fuse block main fuse is blown, none of those circuits will be energized.

 

 

Actually, how do I tell if the main fuse is blown? From the top, I can see a metal arch thingy that seems to be intact. I don't have a multimeter. Turning ignition to on only lights the ABS light, no other lights come on. The car starts fine and it has dash lights but none of the instruments actually work (all read 0) and odometer is blank. No radio or heat. Power windows don't work. Headlights, domelight and power locks work.

See above

This is not good. Just replaced main fuse. Still not working. Do I have check every fuse now? How do I do that without a multimeter? Just eyeball to see if it's still intact?

Worst yet, what if it's the ECU? How do I test for that?

Edit: nope, ECU fuse intact assuming 10 is correct per https://testroete.com/car/Toyota/mr2%20spyder/Repair%20Information/Repair%20Manual/20%20-%20Body%20Electrical/03%20-%20Power%20Source%20-%20Location.pdf

Edit2: 4, 7 and 18 also intact here https://testroete.com/car/Toyota/mr2%20spyder/Repair%20Information/Repair%20Manual/20%20-%20Body%20Electrical/03%20-%20Power%20Source%20-%20Location.pdf

This is really bad -_-