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SuperPro Bushing Install

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DesertWanderer
(@desertwanderer)
Honorable Member

Help! I need to fix my ignorance. I R&R'd my first engine at age 70 and yes, the car runs great now. I am late to the game but I am learning. I am in the process of installing SuperPro bushings on my Spyder. I need to identify the three pieces A, B, and C in the pic below. I have been looking at Toyota parts catalogs and I am not quite there yet. Help! Thanks in advance!

 

image
This topic was modified 4 years ago 3 times by DesertWanderer

2007 S2000 (New Formula Red)
2005 Spyders (Two in Paradise Blue Metallic, One Super White)
2004 Tundra SR5 Double Cab (White with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Tundra SR5 Access Cab (Silver Stepside with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Sequoia SR5 (Black with 2UZ-FE Engine)
1970 Olds 442 W30 (Nugget Gold )

Quote
Topic starter Posted : April 23, 2020 7:19 pm
phats
(@phats)
Reputable Member

SPF2396K - Rear Lower Control Arm - Inner bushing  (A)

SPF2395K - Toe control arm - Inner bushing  (C)
SPF2398K - Trailing arm lower bushing  (B)

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Posted : April 23, 2020 7:34 pm
DesertWanderer
(@desertwanderer)
Honorable Member

@phats Hey, I got one of them right! Much appreciated!

2007 S2000 (New Formula Red)
2005 Spyders (Two in Paradise Blue Metallic, One Super White)
2004 Tundra SR5 Double Cab (White with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Tundra SR5 Access Cab (Silver Stepside with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Sequoia SR5 (Black with 2UZ-FE Engine)
1970 Olds 442 W30 (Nugget Gold )

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Topic starter Posted : April 23, 2020 7:36 pm
phats
(@phats)
Reputable Member

Glad I could help .....

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Posted : April 23, 2020 7:40 pm
Uncle Mush
(@uncle-mush)
Member
Posted by: @desertwanderer

I R&R'd my first engine at age 70 . . . 

Dang!  You're my hero!

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Posted : April 23, 2020 8:45 pm
DesertWanderer
(@desertwanderer)
Honorable Member

Ok. Starting with the toe control arm, I removed the nut and bolt from the left end, then the nut from the right end. It does not want to come off. I have it soaking in PB Blaster now. Any ideas? I am hesitant to beat on it. Words of wisdom?

image

2007 S2000 (New Formula Red)
2005 Spyders (Two in Paradise Blue Metallic, One Super White)
2004 Tundra SR5 Double Cab (White with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Tundra SR5 Access Cab (Silver Stepside with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Sequoia SR5 (Black with 2UZ-FE Engine)
1970 Olds 442 W30 (Nugget Gold )

ReplyQuote
Topic starter Posted : April 23, 2020 8:55 pm
DesertWanderer
(@desertwanderer)
Honorable Member

@uncle-mush The bad news is that it took a week but it was a great learning experience.

2007 S2000 (New Formula Red)
2005 Spyders (Two in Paradise Blue Metallic, One Super White)
2004 Tundra SR5 Double Cab (White with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Tundra SR5 Access Cab (Silver Stepside with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Sequoia SR5 (Black with 2UZ-FE Engine)
1970 Olds 442 W30 (Nugget Gold )

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Topic starter Posted : April 23, 2020 9:01 pm
Uncle Mush reacted
dev
 dev
(@dev)
Just a member.
Posted by: @desertwanderer

Ok. Starting with the toe control arm, I removed the nut and bolt from the left end, then the nut from the right end. It does not want to come off. I have it soaking in PB Blaster now. Any ideas? I am hesitant to beat on it. Words of wisdom?

image

That fitting needs a pickle fork or a balljoint separator tool like this.

https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2PILG474YY0C8&dchild=1&keywords=ball+joint+remover+tool&qid=1587690826&sprefix=Balljoint+re%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-5

 

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Posted : April 23, 2020 9:14 pm
dev
 dev
(@dev)
Just a member.

Another way to do it is to remove the other control arms and maybe the lower strut bolts detached and it should give you enough clearance to get the tow adjustment side to clear and you can replace the bushing on the car with my tool leaving the joint side attached. 

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Posted : April 23, 2020 9:20 pm
DesertWanderer
(@desertwanderer)
Honorable Member

@dev God I am such a dunce. When I asked you about this back in July last year, you told me I would need the separator. See below. I bought it. I just did not know that this is where I would need it. Thanks Dev! (Again!)

image

 

2007 S2000 (New Formula Red)
2005 Spyders (Two in Paradise Blue Metallic, One Super White)
2004 Tundra SR5 Double Cab (White with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Tundra SR5 Access Cab (Silver Stepside with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Sequoia SR5 (Black with 2UZ-FE Engine)
1970 Olds 442 W30 (Nugget Gold )

ReplyQuote
Topic starter Posted : April 23, 2020 10:07 pm
dev
 dev
(@dev)
Just a member.

Most welcome. You can also use it for the front control arm ball joint. 
Everyone should own this tool, it’s invaluable. 

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Posted : April 23, 2020 10:17 pm
CSPIDY
(@cspidy)
Reputable Member

I’ve seen the guys on TV take two hammers and tap the joint on ether side and it pops apart like magic

never works for me

 

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Posted : April 24, 2020 5:30 am
dev
 dev
(@dev)
Just a member.
Posted by: @cspidy

I’ve seen the guys on TV take two hammers and tap the joint on ether side and it pops apart like magic

never works for me

 

 I have seen people use pickle fork ball joint separators that work for others. When I use them it squirts grease out from the boot. I also seen a guy ruin the threads hammering it out.
  The tool above is so simple to use without damage. When you turn the bolt it presses hard on the joint and when it comes close to popping I wince because what comes next is a loud bang. I hate when I hear it but satisfied it’s done. 

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Posted : April 24, 2020 9:05 am
(@marsrock7)
Honorable Member
Posted by: @dev
Posted by: @cspidy

I’ve seen the guys on TV take two hammers and tap the joint on ether side and it pops apart like magic

never works for me

 

 I have seen people use pickle fork ball joint separators that work for others. When I use them it squirts grease out from the boot. I also seen a guy ruin the threads hammering it out.
  The tool above is so simple to use without damage. When you turn the bolt it presses hard on the joint and when it comes close to popping I wince because what comes next is a loud bang. I hate when I hear it but satisfied it’s done. 

I will be ordering this tool today. I should have had one long ago. 

I've done the hammer trick in the past but it only works for me when I'm able to preload the ball joint somehow. Most often something I have to do to change axles on a Honda. Front lower ball joint has to disconnect from the lower control arm to be able to take the axle out. I usually put the nut on the end of the ball joints threads to protect them and preload against it with a bottle or scissor jack, then a few solid taps on the side of the control arm and POP. Done.  

I only use pickle forks when that ball joint is being replaced. I have yet to not destroy the joint or at least the boot when using a fork.

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Posted : April 24, 2020 1:36 pm
dev
 dev
(@dev)
Just a member.
Posted by: @marsrock7
Posted by: @dev
Posted by: @cspidy

I’ve seen the guys on TV take two hammers and tap the joint on ether side and it pops apart like magic

never works for me

 

 I have seen people use pickle fork ball joint separators that work for others. When I use them it squirts grease out from the boot. I also seen a guy ruin the threads hammering it out.
  The tool above is so simple to use without damage. When you turn the bolt it presses hard on the joint and when it comes close to popping I wince because what comes next is a loud bang. I hate when I hear it but satisfied it’s done. 

I only use pickle forks when that ball joint is being replaced. I have yet to not destroy the joint or at least the boot when using a fork.

     Thats exactly what made me order this tool because I have destroyed the boots from the joints but fortunately it was removal from a part out cars. I have seen people use the fork without any damage. I suppose its technique. I have also replaced my axle on my Honda Accord and this tool made things easy but unfortunate I ruined the hub when trying hammer out the axle. I loaned out my gear puller and forgot who has it. A gear puller is another essential tool that I cant do without and I should buy another.  

 

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Posted : April 24, 2020 2:35 pm
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