Bimmer-Bob gets an MR2 – Page 2 – The Showcase

FormInFunction

(@forminfunction)

Eminent Member

I'm thinking that you may not have the front under-bumper/chin piece if the front end seems light. Missing that along with having sagging or non-existent underbody plastics, worn out suspension, or a questionable tire balance/alignment can contribute to that feeling. Personally I don't run the diaper or other underbody plastic pieces but it does allow more turbulent air flow under the car & eventually too many little things will add up. Never had an issue with feeling unstable with the alignment & suspension sorted out, although I can only confirm that up to around 130mph in a straight line

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Posted : June 22, 2020 10:23 am

Bimmer-Bob

(@bimmer-bob)

Eminent Member

Been really busy with a new job, but I did get some deferred maintenance done. Last oil change on record was June 2019 (at a quick lube place) so I decided to do a proper oil change. I ran some LIQUI MOLY Pro-Line engine flush and filled the sump with some Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30, and replaced the no-name filter (which was screwed on WAY too tight!) with an OEM one. I also replaced the drain plug with a Stahlbus drain valve to make things a little quicker and less messy next time. Unfortunately, in my haste I stripped the oil pan threads, and ended up having to replace the entire pan! Oh well, lesson learned, slow down. It was a bit of a pain to get the stock pan off, but everything went back together beautifully with some Toyota FIPG (no leaks yet, knock on wood).

I also changed the air filter and wiper blades (PIAA Aero Vogue silicone, never tried them before but are supposed to last twice as long as traditional rubber - we'll see, I guess). I did notice a leak from the transaxle, but it looked like it was coming from the drain plug. Turns out it wasn't quite torqued to spec. I've had a nasty grind getting into reverse occasionally, so I decided rather than replace the lost Valvoline Synchromesh MTF to just do a complete drain and fill with Redline MT-90 (my preferred brand of gear oil in other applications). So far , so good - still a little crunch into reverse when cold if I'm not careful, but it sounds like that is kind of par for the course with these things. Double clutching doesn't really seem to help, it's just sort of try and try again without forcing it and it goes in fine the 2nd or 3rd try. Not a huge deal.

I washed and detailed the car, including the engine compartment and the frunk (plastics and underneath) - those areas had been kind of ignored, but cleaned up nicely. I hit just about every piece of black plastic I could find with some Chemical Guys VRP, which I highly recommend. It seriously makes tired plastic look brand new, without any kind of greasy residue like a typical dressing.

I also replaced the seat adjustment knob on the driver's seat, which was broken. The interior is otherwise in pretty nice shape, except that the leather panels on the door cards are sort of coming loose on a couple edges - need to look into how to fix that. I also ordered some replacement stickers for the fuel door and rear deck lid release.

Nothing too exciting, except a heaping dose of TLC for an older car (which to me is exciting, lol).

Anyway, I'm thoroughly enjoying this little car. It's impractical as hell, but it's a blast to commute in. It really feels like nothing else. It's almost hard to believe this thing was sold new even 20 years ago - in terms of road isolation, it reminds me of a much older car - my old '72 Super Beetle comes to mind. Of course this thing handles much better, but seriously, I feel like one step up from a motorcycle driving this thing on the highway, lol.

It's also a joy to work on. It's quite simple and straightforward, everything is rather accessible - at least by modern car standards. I mean, the oil pan was a bit of a pain because it was practically fused to the block, but access wasn't a problem. O2 sensors? You can literally reach in and grab them. Nothing obstructing the valve cover, other than the rear strut brace, etc. These are things that cause cursing and gnashing of teeth on my BMW, because of all the work you have to do before you even get to the work you're actually trying to do. I'm sure it's a similar story with other makes. The modern engine bay and undercarriage is just so tightly jam packed. The MR2 Spyder is refreshingly uncluttered in that regard.

This post was modified 4 years ago 3 times by Bimmer-Bob

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Topic starter Posted : July 14, 2020 1:38 am

DesertWanderer, dev, Uncle Mush and 1 people reacted

dblotii

(@dblotii)

Estimable Member

Reverse gear has no synchronizers, so it will crunch if you are rolling at all when you shift into reverse. It is also possible that you clutch isn't fully disengaging, but the tranny oil is not the problem.

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Posted : July 14, 2020 11:46 am

Bimmer-Bob

(@bimmer-bob)

Eminent Member

@dblotii, yeah the change in fluid didn't really make any difference. I'm never rolling when it happens - it's usually when I'm first backing out of my garage or a parking space, so both clutch and brake fully depressed. Clutch is brand new.

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Topic starter Posted : July 14, 2020 4:50 pm

haloruler64

(@haloruler64)

Noble Member

From my experience the Spyder makes a bit of a crunch once in a while when going into reverse, even if you're still. It happened both with my 5 speed and 6 speed, both stock clutch and stage 2 clutch. Nothing horrible, just a quick noise, and not always. Only when cold.

2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder, 2021 Lexus UX 250h F Sport

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Posted : July 14, 2020 6:36 pm

Bimmer-Bob

(@bimmer-bob)

Eminent Member

Posted by: @haloruler64

From my experience the Spyder makes a bit of a crunch once in a while when going into reverse, even if you're still. It happened both with my 5 speed and 6 speed, both stock clutch and stage 2 clutch. Nothing horrible, just a quick noise, and not always. Only when cold.

Exactly my experience so far. I've just learned to be extra careful when backing out in the morning (or after work).

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Topic starter Posted : July 14, 2020 7:34 pm

Bimmer-Bob

(@bimmer-bob)

Eminent Member

Any tips on fixing the peeling edges on the leather door panel inserts? I guess some type of glue would be needed, but I'm afraid to just start trying random glues. I don't want to damage the leather, or have glue seep through, or get all over the plastic, or whatever. Is there some kind of special upholstery glue that is needed?

The driver's pull handle has the slightest bit of play as well - that will probably be just a matter of tightening some fasteners, so no big deal I would guess.

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Topic starter Posted : July 14, 2020 7:43 pm