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Why not move the battery to the frunk?  

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NottaMiata
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This topic was modified 5 months ago 2 times by NottaMiata
This topic was modified 4 months ago by NottaMiata

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Posted : July 3, 2019 1:38 pm
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WilcoMR-S
(@wilcomr-s)
Trusted Member

After removing a bunch of the useless crap from the front of my track project I was wondering the same thing.

Some sort of sealed battery box with a lightweight battery like a DynaBat.

That or use a tray like the one from JEGS.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dui-5475yl?seid=srese2&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Brands+|+D&utm_term=4581664954737023&utm_content=GSAPI+5ba262a7e55de

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Posted : July 3, 2019 1:58 pm
Dev
 Dev
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Its good idea and  I have done it for a good five years but went back. There are a few things to keep in mind.  

The cable you would need would have to be at a minimum 0 gauge.  A 0 gauge wire adds a good amount of weight.  

It is true that having the battery up top is not ideal however it is by the fire wall which is closer to the middle of the car. Its probably done this way because the side vent on the drivers side cools the battery and it is easy to access and maintain.  

You need to make a good solid ground connection otherwise it will create ground loop and sagging voltage that is nesseary for all the puny wiring that need all the help they can get to maintain stiffer voltage thought the system.

Im not saying not to do it as it can be a benefit but you need to do it right.   I went back to the rear of the car simply because I now run a 3lb lithium battery which makes the weight insignificant and removing the 0 gauge wire was heavy so good riddance. 

 

 

 

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Posted : July 3, 2019 1:59 pm
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chrioboy2
(@chrioboy2)
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I believe if you add considerable weight from a swap it may be more beneficial to get rid of the factory gas tank and mount a small tank near the position of the spare tire. Like dev pointed out, lithium batteries or a capacitor stack are teh futura!

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Posted : July 5, 2019 10:05 am
Lostpilot28
(@lostpilot28)
Active Member

Honestly, I considered moving the battery to the front for better weight distribution.  BUT, as Dev said, the cable weight would be significant.  Plus it's a good amount of work to locate it somewhere solid and run that cable correctly.

Instead, I moved the battery location down 12 inches to the cross member, and bought a 2 lb. race battery.  Doesn't get much better than that.  If for some reason I need more weight up front, I'll keep the spare tire in the frunk, or my medium sized bag of tools. 

2003 MR2 Spyder
SCCA STR class build
Camcon tune, full exhaust, CAI
Ceiko coilovers (8k / 10k)
15x9 wheels, BFG Rival S 1.5's
Corbeau Race seats
2,120 lbs ready to race

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Posted : July 5, 2019 3:44 pm
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hello
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Posted by: Lostpilot28

Honestly, I considered moving the battery to the front for better weight distribution.  BUT, as Dev said, the cable weight would be significant.  Plus it's a good amount of work to locate it somewhere solid and run that cable correctly.

Instead, I moved the battery location down 12 inches to the cross member, and bought a 2 lb. race battery.  Doesn't get much better than that.  If for some reason I need more weight up front, I'll keep the spare tire in the frunk, or my medium sized bag of tools. 

How did you lower the battery?

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Posted : July 5, 2019 9:13 pm
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Galo
 Galo
(@galo)
Estimable Member

By moving the battery to the cross member, you've moved it from in front of the axle to behind it. Yes, it will be lower, but adding that weight behind the axle might not be a good idea, imo.

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Posted : July 7, 2019 12:19 am
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WilcoMR-S
(@wilcomr-s)
Trusted Member

I messaged a couple people but figured the info would be useful in this thread.

How did you guys lower your battery? Is there a relocation kit for it or do you modify your existing battery tray?

I had been simply looking at a sealed and vented battery box behind the seats. Curious what everyone had done.

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Posted : July 12, 2019 12:41 pm
phats
(@phats)
Estimable Member

I made mine for my 2ar swap , needed to put the airbox where the battery was . I moved mine to the rear cross member using existing threaded holes . Went to a Honda fit battery which is shorter in length but about the same height .

This post was modified 5 months ago by phats
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Posted : July 12, 2019 9:48 pm
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Lostpilot28
(@lostpilot28)
Active Member

Sorry for not replying sooner...I forgot to subscribe to the thread!

Anyway, I just removed the regular battery tray altogether.  The small 2 lb battery sits on the cross member and the cables are just long enough to connect up.  The only thing I had to do was figure out a way to clamp down the small battery.  I used one of those cheap J-hook kits you can pretty much anywhere, but I had to trim the clamp part to be much shorter since the battery is tiny. 

A better tie-down solution would've been to follow what another guy did and just put one of those small ratcheting straps around the battery and cross member.  If I had to re-do it, that's the route I would go.

As for shifting the weigh slightly aft - I don't think this is a problem at all.  I've removed several pounds further aft by switching to headers and a (much) lighter muffler.  The difference in the moment-arm of the battery would be nil, anyway.

This post was modified 5 months ago by Lostpilot28

2003 MR2 Spyder
SCCA STR class build
Camcon tune, full exhaust, CAI
Ceiko coilovers (8k / 10k)
15x9 wheels, BFG Rival S 1.5's
Corbeau Race seats
2,120 lbs ready to race

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Posted : July 13, 2019 9:58 am
WilcoMR-S liked
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