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DesertWanderer
(@desertwanderer)
Honorable Member

Hello all! I am replacing all of the bushings on my Spyder with the SuperPro versions. I found the part numbers that I needed (thanks Dev!) and went about looking for them. I found two suppliers with most, not all, of what I needed until DDPR come up on a Google search. I certainly know of them by their good reputation but I did not know that they sold SuperPro. They actually sell a complete kit with all of the parts that I needed. I repeat the contents of the kit here (straight from the DDPR website) in case someone else needs it. I have verified the numbers on the SuperPro website.

SPF2781K - Front Lower Control Arm - Inner Front Kit 
SPF2782K - Front Lower Control Arm - Inner Rear Kit 
SPF2092B-4K - Front Sway bar link to lower arm bushing
SPF2399-20K - Front Sway bar mount to chassis bushing (20mm) 
SPF2396K - Rear Lower Control Arm - Inner bushing 
SPF2400-15K - Rear Sway bar mount to chassis bushing (15mm) 
SPF2395K - Toe control arm - Inner bushing 
SPF2398K - Trailing arm lower bushing

 

My question is related to my NOOB status. Does anyone have suggestions or helpful hints about what to do or what not do regarding installation? I have already procured on OEM brand ball joint separator. I have never done this type of work before but I have R&R'd an engine in my S2000 by myself. (Well, two of my dogs consulted on the work and it took me about a week.)

 

Also, any thoughts of how often to grease the bushings in maintenance? (One additional point is that I daily drive my Spyder (by choice, if it is down I have backups) and I drive about 300 miles/week.)

 

Any help will be appreciated. I have already bought the SuperPro grease, any thoughts on that would be appreciated. They are very proud of it and charge about $100 per kg. I bought 500 g for $40 on Ebay by playing "Let's Make a Deal".

 

Thanks in advance!

This topic was modified 5 years ago 2 times by DesertWanderer

2007 S2000 (New Formula Red)
2005 Spyders (Two in Paradise Blue Metallic, One Super White)
2004 Tundra SR5 Double Cab (White with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Tundra SR5 Access Cab (Silver Stepside with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Sequoia SR5 (Black with 2UZ-FE Engine)
1970 Olds 442 W30 (Nugget Gold )

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Topic starter Posted : July 19, 2019 3:36 am
WilcoMR-S reacted
dev
 dev
(@dev)
Just a member.

 My DVD covers the install except for the sway bar bushings. Keep in mind that the sway bar bushings are for the stock sway bars.

The special grease that is provided with the bushings is more than enough and it should last nearly a life time because the grease is contained in the bushing design by the use of channels.  I never had to re-grease in over 13 years  but if you ever had to you need to actually remove the bushing and apply the grease which would be a pain. 

 

I would suggest that you do the rear first as its easier.  The front control arm big bushing is the hardest but its not too bad if you follow my technique of removal and installation.  Use plenty of lubricant when extracting the bushing and you should be fine.   

These are very high quality poly replacement bushings. We are fortunate that Superpro had them made for us.  

 

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Posted : July 19, 2019 9:54 am
WilcoMR-S reacted
DesertWanderer
(@desertwanderer)
Honorable Member

@dev

Thanks Dev!

2007 S2000 (New Formula Red)
2005 Spyders (Two in Paradise Blue Metallic, One Super White)
2004 Tundra SR5 Double Cab (White with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Tundra SR5 Access Cab (Silver Stepside with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Sequoia SR5 (Black with 2UZ-FE Engine)
1970 Olds 442 W30 (Nugget Gold )

ReplyQuote
Topic starter Posted : July 19, 2019 4:29 pm
dev
 dev
(@dev)
Just a member.

Just take your time. I would tackle rear on one day and then do the front whenever.  

Also keep in mind that the actual hardest bushings is actually the one on the rear spindle which I don't demonstrate. It can be very tight to cut the casing while on the car but its better than removing the hub and sending it out for machine work. My suggestion is to take care of that one later on because its a real pain like trying to file a lock. 

 

 

 

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Posted : July 19, 2019 5:40 pm
WilcoMR-S reacted
Lostpilot28
(@lostpilot28)
Active Member

I bought everything you did about a year ago from Suspension.com, except for the swaybar bushings.  I think it was $287 after shipping.  I did the rear bushings right after I got them delivered, which wasn't too bad.  I have yet to replace the front bushings, but it's on my list.  I'm avoiding it until I have to do it, because I'll end up having to re-do my alignment and corner balance setup.

I ended up also replacing the "outer" rear bushings on the axle carrier...that was a huge pain.  Driving the old ones out and driving the new bushings in took several hours because I left the axle carrier on the car.  I'm hoping the front isn't nearly as difficult.

So Dev, you have a DVD?  How much does it cost? 

 

2003 MR2 Spyder
SCCA STR class build
Camcon tune, full exhaust, CAI
Ceiko coilovers (8k / 10k)
15x9 wheels, BFG Rival S 1.5's
Corbeau Race seats
2,120 lbs ready to race

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Posted : July 20, 2019 6:45 pm
dev
 dev
(@dev)
Just a member.
Posted by: @lostpilot28

I bought everything you did about a year ago from Suspension.com, except for the swaybar bushings.  I think it was $287 after shipping.  I did the rear bushings right after I got them delivered, which wasn't too bad.  I have yet to replace the front bushings, but it's on my list.  I'm avoiding it until I have to do it, because I'll end up having to re-do my alignment and corner balance setup.

I ended up also replacing the "outer" rear bushings on the axle carrier...that was a huge pain.  Driving the old ones out and driving the new bushings in took several hours because I left the axle carrier on the car.  I'm hoping the front isn't nearly as difficult.

So Dev, you have a DVD?  How much does it cost? 

 

It’s sold along with a tool I make. The DVD guides you to remove and install the Superpro bushings.  I sell it for $35. 

It makes install easy, no press, no fire and no risk of damaging your control arms. Just some simple hand tools and a few hours work. 

 

 

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Posted : July 20, 2019 7:34 pm
DesertWanderer
(@desertwanderer)
Honorable Member
Posted by: @lostpilot28

I bought everything you did about a year ago from Suspension.com, except for the swaybar bushings.  I think it was $287 after shipping.  I did the rear bushings right after I got them delivered, which wasn't too bad.  I have yet to replace the front bushings, but it's on my list.  I'm avoiding it until I have to do it, because I'll end up having to re-do my alignment and corner balance setup.

I ended up also replacing the "outer" rear bushings on the axle carrier...that was a huge pain.  Driving the old ones out and driving the new bushings in took several hours because I left the axle carrier on the car.  I'm hoping the front isn't nearly as difficult.

So Dev, you have a DVD?  How much does it cost? 

 

Yep, I went to Suspension.com first. They had a 4 - 6 week delay on supplying all of the parts but the best prices. I went with DDPR because they had everything in stock. 

2007 S2000 (New Formula Red)
2005 Spyders (Two in Paradise Blue Metallic, One Super White)
2004 Tundra SR5 Double Cab (White with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Tundra SR5 Access Cab (Silver Stepside with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Sequoia SR5 (Black with 2UZ-FE Engine)
1970 Olds 442 W30 (Nugget Gold )

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Topic starter Posted : July 20, 2019 9:54 pm
Lostpilot28
(@lostpilot28)
Active Member

@dev

Interesting...I think I remember this from the other forum.  Is the tool for the rear bushings, or the front?  I only have the front left to do.

🙂

2003 MR2 Spyder
SCCA STR class build
Camcon tune, full exhaust, CAI
Ceiko coilovers (8k / 10k)
15x9 wheels, BFG Rival S 1.5's
Corbeau Race seats
2,120 lbs ready to race

ReplyQuote
Posted : July 21, 2019 11:33 am
dev
 dev
(@dev)
Just a member.
Posted by: @lostpilot28

@dev

Interesting...I think I remember this from the other forum.  Is the tool for the rear bushings, or the front?  I only have the front left to do.

🙂

Its for both however some bushings  require you to cut the case and not the tool which I demonstrate in the video.  Most bushings however are installed using the tool.  The cool thing about the tool is that I designed it to break before it would cause damage to the control arm. Before doing all of this I bought a press and it was a disaster with the control arm flying and damaging the drywall in the garage.  If someone were to do them with a press I would only get them done from a qualified machine shop or person who has experience with using a press.  That is why I spent weeks on end at the hardware store for a tool that would  do the job and a technique to remove the cased bushings that is far safer.  The DVD in my opinion is what makes it easy because once you can visualize what has to be done, you just have to get to work.  

I have been criticized in the past for not just offering this up for free but I provide a service including support  with everything ready to go. I also made sure my profit margins only amount to a six pack of high quality beer and that is my motivation for  continuing to provide the product which I have sold many hundreds of these world wide.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Posted : July 21, 2019 12:56 pm
DesertWanderer
(@desertwanderer)
Honorable Member
Posted by: @dev
Posted by: @lostpilot28

@dev

Interesting...I think I remember this from the other forum.  Is the tool for the rear bushings, or the front?  I only have the front left to do.

🙂

Its for both however some bushings  require you to cut the case and not the tool which I demonstrate in the video.  Most bushings however are installed using the tool.  The cool thing about the tool is that I designed it to break before it would cause damage to the control arm. Before doing all of this I bought a press and it was a disaster with the control arm flying and damaging the drywall in the garage.  If someone were to do them with a press I would only get them done from a qualified machine shop or person who has experience with using a press.  That is why I spent weeks on end at the hardware store for a tool that would  do the job and a technique to remove the cased bushings that is far safer.  The DVD in my opinion is what makes it easy because once you can visualize what has to be done, you just have to get to work.  

I have been criticized in the past for not just offering this up for free but I provide a service including support  with everything ready to go. I also made sure my profit margins only amount to a six pack of high quality beer and that is my motivation for  continuing to provide the product which I have sold many hundreds of these world wide.  

 

Isn't it always the way for some to criticize those who have gone above and beyond to produce a product or service that is not available elsewhere? And those who did not invest the time to invent the product or service think that those who did should give it away. Thanks Dev! No criticism here! Enjoy your beer!

 

 

 

 

 

2007 S2000 (New Formula Red)
2005 Spyders (Two in Paradise Blue Metallic, One Super White)
2004 Tundra SR5 Double Cab (White with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Tundra SR5 Access Cab (Silver Stepside with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Sequoia SR5 (Black with 2UZ-FE Engine)
1970 Olds 442 W30 (Nugget Gold )

ReplyQuote
Topic starter Posted : July 21, 2019 3:50 pm
dev
 dev
(@dev)
Just a member.

I believe in capitalism that actually makes things available. Those that offer stuff for free for some kind  of  virtue signaling is fine also but without money as a motivating factor it gets extinguished.  I had a family member ask me why don't I just charge more because people are buying so I can increase my  profit margins and I had to tell him that it never works and it would kill sales. Its ok to  profit from your innovations and hard work for stuff that dosen't exist but there comes a point where value comes into the equation for your customers.  That is why I don't conduct sales on items because that kind of marketing scheme is doesn't work with hard core hobbies. 

The money I get goes right back into my hobbies and tools so I can further develop my skills an innovation. This is what those other DIY that are critical of methods don't understand and its not about greed.  I also support other peoples endeavors and often find its work that would cost many more times if it was bought from a company because of all the overheads.  The is why community built stuff can be a treasure.   

 

 

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Posted : July 21, 2019 6:42 pm
haloruler64
(@haloruler64)
Noble Member

Can confirm, great tool, great Dev, tool snapped on me when trying to get a bushing out. Bought a replacement part (again thanks to Dev for providing a part number from a hardware store), finished the job. Did have to use a press to get that one stubborn bushing out, but the rest went far smoothly. No clue why that one gave me so much trouble.

2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder, 2021 Lexus UX 250h F Sport

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Posted : July 21, 2019 8:05 pm
dev
 dev
(@dev)
Just a member.
Posted by: @haloruler64

Can confirm, great tool, great Dev, tool snapped on me when trying to get a bushing out. Bought a replacement part (again thanks to Dev for providing a part number from a hardware store), finished the job. Did have to use a press to get that one stubborn bushing out, but the rest went far smoothly. No clue why that one gave me so much trouble.

If it was for the one on the hub you can cut the case completely.  Then just deform the case using a small screwdriver and tap it out.  These bushings is like having to do a jail break with hacksawing a lock with a file but it's doable and  better than removing the hub and having it sent out.  Just takes a little patience and perseverance.  

 

 

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Posted : July 22, 2019 9:32 am
KaM
 KaM
(@kamlung)
N00b

i bought your tool 5 yrs ago dev but mine was seized in there causing the tool to bent... i never thought to reach out to you to ask for replacement part numbers to try again.  now that i have a scissor lift, i can get the car higher and more leverage maybe busting it out... i would like to do the rears too 

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Posted : July 22, 2019 10:57 am
dev
 dev
(@dev)
Just a member.

@kamlung

The best thing to do in this situation is to lubricate the bushing well In advance. Sometimes salted areas freezes the front spool bushing to the control arm. You can also drill multiple holes in the bushing to loosen it up.  Most of the time a second attempt with a new bolt does the trick.

The tool giving way is a good thing. The last thing I would ever want to hear is someone ruining their control arm.  

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Posted : July 22, 2019 11:20 am
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