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Removing Soft Top Latch

DesertWanderer
(@desertwanderer)
Honorable Member

I need to remove the part of the soft top latch that is fixed to the upper part of the windshield. I am doing this so that I can route wiring under the plastics and A - pillar for a dashcam.

My car has the specially engineered T40 Torx bolts that are designed to strip before letting go. I am guessing they were doused with thread sealer before installation. No stripping has occurred but I am sure that is what brute force will buy me. I have tried a 120 Watt soldering iron applied for 3 minutes and still no go. I am hesitant to apply a lot of force because it feels like the bolts will strip.

Any thoughts? I have an old 500 Watt soldering iron that I will dig out of storage tomorrow. Any other thoughts? Would a torch be better?

I am assuming that I have to remove this latch to route wiring under the plastics and A - pillar for a dashcam. Am I correct in this assumption?

 

Thanks as always!

 

2007 S2000 (New Formula Red)
2005 Spyders (Two in Paradise Blue Metallic, One Super White)
2004 Tundra SR5 Double Cab (White with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Tundra SR5 Access Cab (Silver Stepside with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Sequoia SR5 (Black with 2UZ-FE Engine)
1970 Olds 442 W30 (Nugget Gold )

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Topic starter Posted : August 2, 2019 1:27 am
haloruler64
(@haloruler64)
Noble Member

Yeah they get stuck due to thread sealer. Impact them out. If they strip, cut a slot in em and impact them out even harder. 

I'm really not joking. The head stripped out when I used a ratchet. It wasn't really worth trying and I should have gone for the impact. Once it was stripped, I carefully cut a slot with a dremel and used this crazy thing: https://amzn.to/2yClcUl

It was expensive, but it worked. Put it on an impact and just hit it till it came out. I only had ONE strip out of four though. Replaced all four.

And yes, you remove the latch so you can remove the plastics like the pillar trim. Don't have to remove the center plastic under the dome light, just tuck the wire under it with a plastic trim tool, but you will have to remove the pillar and secure the wire along it. 

2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder, 2021 Lexus UX 250h F Sport

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Posted : August 2, 2019 2:25 am
DesertWanderer
(@desertwanderer)
Honorable Member

Are you talking about an impact driver (hit with hammer) or an impact wrench?

2007 S2000 (New Formula Red)
2005 Spyders (Two in Paradise Blue Metallic, One Super White)
2004 Tundra SR5 Double Cab (White with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Tundra SR5 Access Cab (Silver Stepside with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Sequoia SR5 (Black with 2UZ-FE Engine)
1970 Olds 442 W30 (Nugget Gold )

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Topic starter Posted : August 2, 2019 2:47 am
DesertWanderer
(@desertwanderer)
Honorable Member

Think you already told me.

 

"Put it on an impact and just hit it till it came out."

2007 S2000 (New Formula Red)
2005 Spyders (Two in Paradise Blue Metallic, One Super White)
2004 Tundra SR5 Double Cab (White with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Tundra SR5 Access Cab (Silver Stepside with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Sequoia SR5 (Black with 2UZ-FE Engine)
1970 Olds 442 W30 (Nugget Gold )

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Topic starter Posted : August 2, 2019 2:50 am
haloruler64
(@haloruler64)
Noble Member

I used an electric impact. I have DeWalt 20V impacts. I'm not sure those handheld impact screwdrivers that you hit with hammers really work.

2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder, 2021 Lexus UX 250h F Sport

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Posted : August 2, 2019 3:41 am
dev
 dev
(@dev)
Just a member.

 

A little heat from a butane torch with the tip directed on the bolt which will help melt the locktite.  This little torch has saved me a number of times for small jobs like this where little bolts were sized or hardened rubber gaskets made things impossible to remove.  

 

 

 

 

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Posted : August 2, 2019 9:50 am
DesertWanderer
(@desertwanderer)
Honorable Member

@dev

Once you heat the bolt and melt the loctite, does the loctite reform as the bolt cools? I always hesitate to start applying torque to a hot bolt because of it being easier to mangle the bolt head then. Should I immediately try to remove the bolt after heating?

2007 S2000 (New Formula Red)
2005 Spyders (Two in Paradise Blue Metallic, One Super White)
2004 Tundra SR5 Double Cab (White with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Tundra SR5 Access Cab (Silver Stepside with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Sequoia SR5 (Black with 2UZ-FE Engine)
1970 Olds 442 W30 (Nugget Gold )

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Topic starter Posted : August 2, 2019 3:31 pm
DesertWanderer
(@desertwanderer)
Honorable Member

Also does anyone know the specs on the bolt so I can get replacements while I am out getting removal supplies?

2007 S2000 (New Formula Red)
2005 Spyders (Two in Paradise Blue Metallic, One Super White)
2004 Tundra SR5 Double Cab (White with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Tundra SR5 Access Cab (Silver Stepside with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Sequoia SR5 (Black with 2UZ-FE Engine)
1970 Olds 442 W30 (Nugget Gold )

ReplyQuote
Topic starter Posted : August 2, 2019 3:33 pm
dev
 dev
(@dev)
Just a member.
Posted by: @desertwanderer

@dev

Once you heat the bolt and melt the loctite, does the loctite reform as the bolt cools? I always hesitate to start applying torque to a hot bolt because of it being easier to mangle the bolt head then. Should I immediately try to remove the bolt after heating?

Thats a good question and I don't know for sure.  I have used heat to melt the locktite on a few fasteners and a  break on a rifle and it usually comes off after cooling so probably yes. 

From experience I feel the same way that I want to be sure that my first attempt is my last attempt because you only have so many tries before the bolt face strips. 

The idea you had about using a impact  driver ( the one where you have to hit with a hammer) might actually what is needed here. I found that this kind of driver action where it gets pushed in and simultaneously twists does a good job of not striping the head face. One good blow and it will loosen. 

 

 

 

 

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Posted : August 2, 2019 3:56 pm
haloruler64
(@haloruler64)
Noble Member

Not sure if you want to go with allen bolts as a replacement, but I used these. The spec is M8x1.25x20mm. https://amzn.to/334J8xO

2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder, 2021 Lexus UX 250h F Sport

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Posted : August 2, 2019 7:26 pm
DesertWanderer
(@desertwanderer)
Honorable Member

@haloruler64

Thanks! Just what I needed!

 

2007 S2000 (New Formula Red)
2005 Spyders (Two in Paradise Blue Metallic, One Super White)
2004 Tundra SR5 Double Cab (White with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Tundra SR5 Access Cab (Silver Stepside with 2UZ-FE Engine)
2003 Sequoia SR5 (Black with 2UZ-FE Engine)
1970 Olds 442 W30 (Nugget Gold )

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Topic starter Posted : August 2, 2019 8:16 pm
(@chrioboy2)
Trusted Member

@haloruler64

They work. Just not on your A pillar next to a windshield 😉

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Posted : August 4, 2019 12:10 am
haloruler64
(@haloruler64)
Noble Member

Haha maybe. I do have a manual impact. Never really made much difference in my use but I do have access to electric impacts so I rarely try it. 

2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder, 2021 Lexus UX 250h F Sport

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Posted : August 4, 2019 12:46 am
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